This can happen if the FCG pins are not perfectly to spec. Make sure you clean those holes out but don't over-drill them.
This can happen for a number of reasons.
- Make sure the third link in the linkage is properly engaging the milspec AR trigger.
- Make sure there are no obstructions along the trigger linkage path.
This usually happens if the bearing surfaces are not fully broken in, or are installed at an angle. It is very important that all shafts and bearings are coaxial, otherwise there will be too much friction for the trigger to reset itself.
If all else fails, adding a pen spring behind the trigger could help. There's a little cutout for it.
This almost always happens when the bolt is not properly seated into the mag release spring hole. Try reinstalling the mag release spring and pay special attention to making sure the bolt lines up and is threaded into hole, not just smashing it downwards.
I know. It can be a pain. Go slow and make sure you're using Teflon-coated 28 or 30 awg wire. Silicone (and some vinyl) wrapped wires will be a huge pain in the ass.
There are tons of guides on tuning a CMMG 22LR FRT. Could be bolt bounce. Could be a number of other things. In general, FRTs and 22LR will likely require some BCG tuning to get running perfectly.
A few notes though:
- Use supersonic high-quality ammo.
- Make sure the hole that the SS inserts into (old safety hole) allows the SS to rotate freely.
The P60 drop-in flashlights are designed to be housed in a large aluminum body to help dissipate heat. As you might imagine, covering them in insulating plastic can be detrimental to its health.
The firmware has a flashlight auto-off timer (Just like in the simulation!) to help alleviate this, but if you override it, you may run into overheating issues.
This can likely happen if you opted to print the charging handle rod.
- Make sure the rod is either flush or below the charging handle body cutout. If any part of the rod is above the handle body, its likely scraping on the top of the handguard.
- Try printing the rod face-down (like a little question mark on the print bed)
- You may scale down the rod such that its 2-3% more narrow or up to 10% less thick. Don't scale down the overall length.